By popular choice, Cox's Bazar has recently been ranked as one of the 'New Seven Wonders of the World'. A favourite spot for many in Bangladesh, this fishing port with its adjoining and unbroken 125 km of natural, gentle, sloping sandy beach, has once again emerged as an important potential tourist destination.

Located 150 km south of Chittagong, in South Eastern Bangladesh, Cox's Bazar derived its name from Captain Hiram Cox, an officer of the British East India Company who was appointed as the Superintendent of that outpost after Warren Hastings became the Governor General of Bengal. A compassionate soul, Cox successfully mediated in the century long conflict between Arakan refugees and local Rakhains. He also made significant progress in the rehabilitation of refugees in the area. Unfortunately, he passed away prematurely in 1799 before he could complete his task. Nevertheless, the local population, decided to honour this civil servant's memory by building a small market near the beach and naming it after him- Cox's Bazaar (‘Cox's Market’).

My only visit to this beautiful destination had been in January 1971. I failed to revisit the scene subsequently, either due to shortage of time or conflicting engagements. Consequently, when I received an invitation (as Member, South Asia Media Commission) a few weeks ago, to attend the South Asia Free Media Conference VII (being held there), I decided to take up this opportunity. I did so with some trepidation. I wanted to savour the sea but also wanted to find out whether necessary tourist facilities had evolved over the last four decades in and around this stunning location. I wanted to ascertain why Cox's Bazar was lagging behind as a major international tourist destination. The important question was whether this was just due to lack of publicity or was it due to absence of necessary associated factors related to international tourism. I received my answers on both accounts.

I travelled to that scenic town by bus from Chittagong. It took about three and half hours to complete the distance. There was also the possibility of flying into Cox's Bazar from Dhaka and Chittagong but I went by bus to find out whether road conditions were difficult and whether access was hampering tourism into that region. I must admit that the meandering road was relatively narrow, not very well-lit, but the surface conditions were quite good. The bus in which I travelled was also quite presentable.

This time round, it was clear that this coastal city (with a population of slightly over 52,000) was emerging as a tourist spot. It reminded me of what Pataya, Thailand was in 1982. It was apparent that the service sector and tourism (3 lakh major source of the economy. I met several young entrepreneurs who were involved in arranging domestic transportation for visitors to take them to nearby religious centers- of interest to the Buddhist community- or to other scenic spots like Aggmeda Khyang: a large Buddhist monastery or to Ramu (with its many temples, khyangs and pagodas containing delicate wood carvings and images of Buddha in gold, bronze and other metals inlaid with precious stones). I also came across weavers who were plying their trade in open workshops and craftsmen making handmade cigars in their pagoda like houses. There was also a small market where sea products made out of pearls, oyster and snail shells were available. There was also evidence of small-scale agriculture, marine and inland fishing and salt production along the coast. There was also the all-pervading smell of drying fish and 'shutki' (not necessarily welcome to international visitors).

The adjoining regions near the beach were filled with hotels, guest houses, and motels. There was also evidence that the real estate industry was busy not only in building apartment blocks but also in trying to sell the western idea of time-sharing ownership contracts. This was interesting.

I joined the over 200 visiting South Asian journalists in their courtesy trips to several spectacular sights near Cox's Bazar. This included spending time in - Laboni Beach, the main beach of Cox's Bazar and closest to the town; Himchari, located about 18 km south of Cox's Bazar along the sea beach and the Enani Beach located 35 km south of Cox's Bazar within Ukhia Thana. It may be mentioned here that this last spot was particularly welcomed because of it being a white sandy beach and also being shark and jelly fish free (ideal for sea bathing). Visiting Himchari and Enani were particularly a pleasure because of the improved road network. They were mostly inaccessible in January 1971. Here was infrastructure building at work. Some hotel tourist operators also took the opportunity of our presence to remind us of our proximity to other nearby probable tourist destinations near the Cox's Bazar coast. They drew our attention to the charms of Maheshkhali island, its mangrove forests, its temples and pagodas; to the beauty of Sonadia island, its coastal lagoon, its migratory bird population and its beds of window pane oysters; to Teknaf (the southernmost part of mainland Bangladesh) and its facility of river cruises along the Naf river and also of eco-trips to St. Martin's island, home to several endangered species of turtles and coral reefs.

The visit indicated that there was immense potential for tourism. It also clarified some of the obstacles that were affecting growth of international interest in this sector in this region.

I consider that the following points need to be addressed with greater seriousness if we are to achieve the promise of this destination. I mentioned them to the Deputy Commissioner of this District and the relevant police administrator. I pointed out the need for arranging greater security for the visitors, particularly women and children. It was also disappointing to see many beggars pestering visitors. That does not help improve the image. It was also clear that the Municipal authorities were not giving sufficient attention towards sanitation and drainage (overflowing sewage) or destroying the breeding zones of mosquitoes. Lastly, most of the town looks run down and desperately needs a coat of fresh paint. The pitiable street lighting also does not inspire confidence for a walk in the evening along the coast with one's family. There is also practically very little to do after the sun sets where visitors can enjoy their evenings either listening to music or having a decent meal in clean surroundings, overlooking the sea. All these factors juxtapose together and affect the demand among international tourist operators. I can only hope that these will be addressed suitably.



Muhammad Zamir can be reached at mzamir@dhaka.net